I actually press almost all comics on the same temperature and time for their first run through. I press at 165 degrees for 300 seconds. Let sit for 2 hours, flip, and repeat on the other side. spine always facing the back of the machine. If I am pressing a book that has no damage and appears to be about a 9.8 already (i press every book i submit no matter what), I preheat the bottom plate for 3 minutes than put the stack and top plate on and press for 300 seconds. With this method you do not need to flip.
Just make sure you NEVER go above 165 for moderns and you have all the layers I describe in my list. Foil and square bound books are also different. Square bound books use glue and not staples and glue melts, so that one is 140 degrees for up to 10 min at very low pressure. Foils are easily damaged by high heat as well and can very, but the general rule for non standard books is start low and work your way up. You can press a book as many times as you want if you start low and go up a few degrees as needed each time. But pressing once too high will ruin it. Embossed books require additional buffer. I usually use an additional 110 lb cardstock on each side of the cover and very low pressure.
The other stuff I’ve read has always talked about how you need to build a super clean area with barriers and plastic sheets and stuff. Do you also do all those steps? My main problem has been the only space I’d be able to place it would be in the workshop half of my garage since A) I have little kids who I can’t risk messing with it, and B) now that everyone is working from home and schooling from home, what USED to be my office that was 100% mine is now shared and filled with other desks…
I do not do that. I have a fold out table with a work mat and that’s it. I think all that is overkill. All you need to do is make sure there is nothing foreign on the cover (hair, dust, etc.). Before I put anything on the press I just give a light wipe on both covers with a Swiffer dry pad. Which you would want to do even with all those precautions because you never know what was on it in the bag. I have pressed well over 100 comics and never once had damage caused by an “unclean” workspace. As long as you dont have one of those garages where you can see dust etc floating in the air, you should be fine.
I tend to be a little more reserved with my temp. I go 135 for moderns let them bake for 5 min then turn off the press. I will then take the book out 6-8 hours later.
Silverage books and newsprint books handle the heat better and I’ll crank it up to 165 for those. Thanks for sharing. I literally had to learn through trial and error. When I started people acted like these techniques were trade secrets.
Nothing wrong with being safe! Same with cleaning, if you are not sure about what you are dong it is always best to start with the least abrasive methods. When I first started I never went above 145 for moderns, but as I got more comfortable I slowly worked my way up. Now I do not change the temp at all unless its a special book. But ya, the older the book the more heat they can take.
I had the same experience when I was trying to learn, no one wants to tell you anything. That is why I am happy to help.
For most books I do: 5 minutes with press on, turn off and wait 2 hours, flip and turn on 5 more minutes, wait 2 hours more and you are done.
If it is a book already in pristine condition and I use the bottom preheat method, I do not flip it.
The reason you wait 2 hours is because that is how long it takes to fully cool (approx). When using a steel plate, the heat causes the plate to expand while applying pressure to the comic. When you let it cool it contracts. These forces actually improve the overall press. It also gives the paper time to “set” in its new configuration. If you take it out of the press to fast, there is a higher chance of the book reverting back to the way it was before pressed. This is why sometimes you see high grade books that look like they should not be high at all. Over time they reverted in the slab.
Sorry if these responses are overly long hah, there is a lot of info to know and I just want to make sure I am not leaving anything important out.
I use 2 magazine sized boards 1 silver age sized board(for the centerfold slipped in between the staple and cover) and a new sheet of parchment paper over the top of the book in between the cover and a magazine sized board. Stacking order from bottom up:
Magazine sized board
Comic with silver age board at the centerfold
Parchment paper (new sheet every time)
Magazine board
I used to use a silicon sheet but found that over time it attracts dust and hair and whatnot so for me it was best to use new parchment paper each time.
My press is in my room and I would hardly call it a clean environment
Lol it’s ok. I have a tape dispenser my kids made for me. It’s a regular tape dispenser that they got ahold of the label maker and made comicsheatingup labels for. No confusing whose tape dispenser is whose.
I would definitely stay low temp if you are not using 65 lb stock between the cover and the book. Once you get to higher temps on moderns, if you do not do a full stack like the one I mention in my link, the pages can fuse together.
One time I found a beat to shit copy of goon 1 in a .50 bin. I pressed it but unbeknownst to me my wife had used the press to I guess iron. Something the heat was on 300. Yeah that wasn’t pretty pretty much every page was stuck to the next. I still sold it for $20 after.
I’ll definitely go get some and try it out. I tried using just plain ole printer paper but noticed a line pressing into the cover from the underlying piece. Do you have a secret way of making the piece under the cover sink in better?
It is possible that the line might be a sign of using too much pressure. How much force do you have to exert to lock the press? I use my non-dominant hand to close the press and make sure I can close it with a loose wrist (if that makes sense).
When I am applying the 65 lb cardstock, I basically just place the spine of the comic in one palm and open the cover (like you are going to read it) and slide the paper all the way to the back. then when I close the book, I use my thumb nail to apply some pressure to the paper to make sure its as far back as possible. I never get lines doing this.
Another benefit I find of the cardstock is that it supports the spine better helping get rid of tougher spine ticks.
It’s possible there’s too much pressure. I’ll go get the supplies and try it out on something some time this week. I’ll get back to you with my results.
the heat was on 300. Yeah that wasn’t pretty pretty much every page was stuck to the next. I still sold it for $20 after. 