please let us know the username of the buyer so we can block them
This was not an international item, just some 1986 fleer basketball cards, a $716 transaction.
The case was eventually in my favor but I just thought it was unusual for a case to come up three months after the transaction.
I’m in the same boat with this POS…
Order still not filled…“waiting on CGC”…
Traded multiple emails and he only insults me when I prove a point or point out his bad business practices.
glad to see they’re going out of business…
I won’t order anything that takes more than a year. Nothing should take that long. When it reaches 11 months, I’m filing a claim before the 12 month expiration. Too many dirtbags out there. Too many …
I’m often surprised that in this current world, some of these scam artists aren’t ultimately held a bit more “accountable” in an up close and personal way. Maybe they are I suppose and I’m just not aware.
Well, I hope you paid by credit card. If so you can start the long process of filing a claim to get your money back, If enough people are affected and willing to come forward and put in the effort, I suppose a class action could be filed, but what a massive hassle and odds of full recovery would most likely be minimal. At least it would screw with the dirbag owner.
Yeah not my personal purchase, but @Im_super_into_that ’s
Ah, I see. Still, they guy seems like a real peach.
General question regarding ebay offers functionality. I generally add the offer feature in all my ebay postings, however curious how others deal with lowball offers such 30% of the asking price.
Do you try to negotiate or just reject? The lowest offer I ever received was 10% of the asking price.
Christ. I receive 50-70% off offers all the time. I deny them and block the low ballers. If someone offers like 20-30% I will counter them at what I am comfortable with.
I set the minimum price for an offer I will entertain. eBay will automatically reject any offer that is below my threshold. Anything above gets sent to me and we go from there.
If it’s an item I just want gone and don’t want to haggle about, I’ll set auto-accept for any offer above a certain amount. Anything below that offer is auto rejected.
I too add the min offer setting. People want to get a deal, and I’m always willing to move a little on prices. But, if someone comes in at 50%, I don’t want to deal with that. I don’t need to block them, but negotiation won’t get anywhere with those. So, I list the item for what I’d like to get, and set my offer min to the absolute min I’d consider. I usually negotiate from there, but at least you’re starting from a reasonable point.
Same here, I set a minimum for a best offer so offers below my threshold I don’t even see or waste my time with. I don’t tend to block in this scenario as I don’t want to limit my customer base. If your money is green and printed by the US Treasury, sounds good to me. I don’t take lowballs personally as with everyone else in their shoes I’m also always looking for a deal or paying the lowest price I can.
Any offer I get at 50% off or below, I auto block. It is our duty to block lowballers so that they stop doing it.
I don’t block anyone for making lowball offers. I make some myself so I’m trying to not be a hypocrite. Does it annoy me like seeing way overpriced comics? A bit, but again I’m a lowballer myself.
I will say people like to feel like they’re getting a deal so price your stuff however you want. If you want to have the price a bit higher to negotiate go ahead. The best way to avoid low ball offers & the annoyance they may cause is to have a minimum best offer. Buyers can counter with less than your minimum but you can also turn the counter offers off.
I myself am a lowballer. I look for the cheapest book possible in the condition that I am willing to pay. For example, I found someone that had a book for $400. I offered $300 and they countered with $325. I was willing to pay up to $375 and got a better deal then expexted. (Book was Tomb of Dacula #1 raw 6.0-7.0). If I didnt low balled, I dont think I would of gotten this deal.
A 25% offer is not a bad offer though… I think for most talking low ball offers, that’s an okay offer.
The only reason I got annoyed when I sold on eBay and got 50% of more type of offers is that I was usually the lowest priced book. I like to undercut others. So yeah, when I was usually the lowest price + shipping already and someone comes in hoping to knock off another 50%… GTFOH… I just ignore and move on and let their offer expire with no action.
I’m the same way. If I put up a book for $400 and someone offers me $300, that’s a reasonable offer as it’s 75% of my listing. We can go from there but most times I would just accept that offer. If it’s something that I’m not too keen on selling for that price then I may counteroffer. Most times 75%-85% offer for my listing will get the job done.
I’m also usually the one that has the lowest price and usually the highest grade listed. I check what others are selling for and if a NM copy is selling for $25 and I have a NM+ copy, I would sell it for $20. I want to sell my books and move inventory, not have it sit there for the next few months for an extra $5. That’s why it’s extra annoying when somebody lowballs me and make an offer of like $7 when they already know that I have already competitively priced the item. Instant block when someone does that.